Saturday, October 12, 2019

Construction - Plumbing Rough-In Completed - A Challenge for This DIYer

The plumbing rough-in was started in late summer
The original rough-in under the slab floor showing the PEX
 lines emerging from PVC conduits; the black gas pipe was
inserted between the PEX and the PVC to protect the PEX
while shortening the conduits (see photo below).
of 2015 when the waste system and supply lines were installed before the concrete floor was poured.  (Curiously, the
 blog post describing it is by far the most visited post so far -- by a factor of 5 to 1 over the next most visited post (rice hull insulation).)  The supply lines were encased in PVC pipes for protection while slinging the crushed rock base for the concrete and pouring the concrete itself.  Both the waste and supply lines were stubbed up high enough to avoid accidental clogging by concrete.  This post takes the rough-in from there and, remember, clicking on the photos enlarges them for a closer look.

Waste Lines
The red circles enclose the shortened conduits; the green
circles enclose PEX stub-outs for two bathroom sinks; the
OSB is left-over roof sheathing that will provide secure
anchorage for cabinetry and mirrors
The layout of the waste lines followed standard protocol and, despite being much more challenging for this DIYer than the supply lines, merits little description here.  There were two minor complications though -- a last-minute addition of a full bath adjacent to the second floor bedroom that required a long waste run to the central stack.  And the vent from the auxiliary kitchen sink located on the south wall had to travel quite a distance to avoid protruding through the roof in view of the public or close to a window.  The lack of partitions on the second floor in which to conceal the central stack vent made for a longer run as well.

Supply Lines
The PEX supply lines were far more interesting.  Each supply line originates from a manifold located next to the incoming water main in the "vertical basement" and terminates at a single faucet or appliance -- a "home-run" design.  The cold water passes directly through the manifold from the main into the cold water (blue) PEX lines.  Hot water takes a bypass through the water heater before passing through the manifold to the (red) PEX lines.  Cut-offs are located on the manifold rather than under faucets or next to appliances such as the dishwasher or washing machine.  That means that, in the future, when a line needs to be closed for some reason, like changing a faucet, its cut-off at the manifold is where it happens, sort of like flipping a circuit breaker at the service panel for working on an electrical circuit.  
Notice PEX lines entering the PVC
conduits that protrude from the floor

As described in the post mentioned above, the all PEX lines were run below the floor inside PVC pipes for several reasons, one of which is that an existing PEX line can be used to pull new line through the PVC pipe in the unlikely event of a sub-floor leak or some other unexpected problem. The nearby photo shows the blue cold water lines taking circuitous routes from the manifold to the PVC pipes while the red hot water lines emanate from the bottom of the manifold and enter the PVC pipes immediately in order to minimize the time it takes for hot water to reach its destination.

Tankless (on demand) Water Heater
The ubiquitous tank-type water heater heats water then, if it isn't used right away, heats it again and again anytime the temperature in the tank falls below a certain mark.  A tankless heater is much more energy efficient because water is heated only once when it is actually being used.  Also, the amount of energy needed to heat a given amount of water the first time is much less for the tankless heater than for the tank type.  Still another energy-saving feature of tankless heating is that heaters come in many sizes for matching hot
Tankless water heater before the  gas
line and vent were connected.
water demand with, say, number of bathrooms.  And it seemed to me while researching water heaters that there are more Energy Star models available among tankless vs. tank type.

Flood Protection
Red arrow points to the master cut-off valve;
the green arrow points to the automatic emergency
cut-off valve.
As is typical, the water line from the street has a master cut-off valve that controls the flow to the entire house.  What is not typical is a secondary emergency-activated cut-off such as the Water Cop System that automatically closes an auxiliary valve just upstream from the master cutoff should any of its wireless senors on the floors of the bathrooms, kitchen and laundry room detect a water leak or overflow.  This backup system will especially give us peace of mind when no one is at home.

Wednesday, August 28, 2019

Construction - Electric Rough-in - A Lot to Think About

The roof is protected by a layer of 6 mil plastic, 
stick-built walls with plastic or lumber wrap;
 (the photo predates installation of windows).
Ideally, our structure should have been buttoned up before roughing in the electric and plumbing.  However, a combination of wet/cold weather and the slower progress when working alone delayed the steel roof installation to the extent that we had to do the electric and plumbing rough-ins under temporary roof and wall protection and during cold weather in lieu of working outside.

The plumbing rough-in, particularly the waste side, was much more challenging to my DIY skill set than the electric rough-in or at least I thought so going in.  I had done enough electrical work
previously that I was comfortable with wiring a house from scratch once the installation of the service panel and meter box were done by professionals and inspected by the city.  However, it took Rex Cauldwell's quintessential book to make me realize that there was much to learn.  Oh sure, I could make things work but, after reading Cauldwell, clearly not always up to professional standards.  This time around, mere code compliance gave way to Cauldwell's "above code" methods whenever possible.  Moreover, my experience had been limited with respect to upgrades like GFCI and AFCI circuit breakers, surge protectors, dedicated circuits for electronic equipment and multiple ground rods.  To say the least, a lot to think about. 

Circuit Design
The first task was to diagram the circuits so that they were balanced as to the amount of amperage they would carry and, as much as possible, limited to as small of an area as possible.  For example, dedicated circuits for
Click on the drawings to enlarge them for better viewing.
the kitchen, laundry and bathrooms are best.  Circuits for smoke alarms and for electronic equipment such as TV's and computers are dedicated circuits as well.  Circuits that are not dedicated were balanced so that it would be unlikely for any to be overloaded in the future.  Once I was happy with the diagrams (plural because the first and second floors were diagrammed separately), the circuits were numbered and color-coded then glued over

architectural floor plans over a white background such that the architectural drawings showed through the diagrams.  The resulting composites were then posted opposite the breaker box for consultation while wiring.  I plan eventually to cover the diagrams with Plexiglas as a permanent record of the electrical lay-out.  Then, a circuit can be identified on the door of the breaker box simply by the number that corresponds to its number on one of the diagrams.

Electrical Boxes
We are building a two story house with the first story being in compliance with the American Disability Act (ADA) (if a lift were to be added to the stairway, the second story would be in compliance as well). Therefore, I raised the height of the electrical boxes for wall receptacles to 18" above the floor instead of the more customary height of the length of a hammer handle.  The boxes for switches and some receptacles were intentionally situated so
The jig is screwed to the stud (arrow) and the box is
held in place against the jig while the nails are set
that the upper edge of the first course of 48" wide drywall would bisect them, making it easier to make accurate cuts in the drywall to accommodate the boxes.  This would be especially important for the exterior walls where air sealing the boxes is critical.

This venture was my first time to use plastic boxes almost exclusively.  In order to position them to be flush with the finished wall and to prevent distortion of the boxes by over-driving the anchoring nails, I made a jig to hold them in place while driving the nails.  Per Cauldwell, I used boxes with the largest volume the wall would accommodate.  For instance, the truss-supported exterior walls and the 2 x 6 wet walls (bathrooms and kitchen) accommodated single gang boxes with a volume of 22 cu in.  Slightly smaller boxes with 18 cu in were necessary for 2 x 4 walls.

Wiring the Boxes
A Cauldwell "above code" practice was to run the power uninterrupted through the boxes and use pigtails to power a given receptacle.  The alternative is the direct connect approach whereby the power enters one side of the receptacle and exits the other side on the way to the other receptacles in the string.  Using the direct approach, according to Cauldwell, can lead to overheating of the upstream receptacles should the downstream receptacles become heavily loaded, say with a bunch of high amperage appliances.  Also, if any upstream receptacles become disabled or are disconnected, those downstream also become disabled, making troubleshooting much more difficult.

Another practice that I had not always followed in the past had to do with switched circuits.  The "above code" method is to run the power to the switch box first rather than to the load first from which then to run a round-trip leg to the switch.  In the switch box, there are two options.  If there is only one load on the circuit, the power is simply run through the switch to the load.  However, if the power needs to feed other receptacles or other loads, a pigtail is used to run power through the switch for the dedicated load while the rest of the power continues downstream.  The nearby photo demonstrates this arrangement.  The yellow 12 ga conduit brings power to the box from the top and continues out the bottom to receptacles downstream.  In the box, pigtails will run power through three switches to three loads on the white 14 ga conduits exiting the box from the top.

Still another new practice for me was to use push-in wire connectors instead of wire nuts. Not only were they much faster to use but they required much less space in boxes crowded by multiple wires.  Click on the picture of the switch box to appreciate how much they can de-clutter a box.  And it is not
always easy to be sure that all the wires inside a wire nut are in proper contact, even after twisting them, while push-in connectors have see-through sides for visualizing the stripped ends of the wires to be sure they are fully seated.  Finally, the local building inspector requested that I use the type of staples pictured at the right instead of the more ubiquitous wire staples in order to lessen the chance of damage to conduits by over-driving the wire staples.

Cauldwell also schooled me on taking care to
make sweeping turns with Romex cable as seen in the nearby photo.  If the cable is bent sharply around a right-angle corner, dangerous overheating can result. 

Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupters and Arc-Fault Circuit Interrupters
I adopted another "above code" feature by using Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) and Arc-Fault Circuit Interrupter (AFCI) circuit breakers rather than individual GFCI or AFCI receptacles at the point of use.  (Actually, to be more precise, I used the modern GFCI-AFCI breakers on most of the circuits and the combination AFCIs that are described below.)  Using GFCI and AFCI breakers instead of individual GFCI and AFCI receptacles has several advantages:  (a) longer lifespan for breakers compared to receptacles, (b) receptacles have to remain accessible (can't be hidden behind furniture, appliances, drapes, etc.), (c) both types of receptacles are bulkier than conventional receptacles and require a box that is deeper than is always available, (d) AFCI receptacles "come with a long list of inconvenient installation rules" (Cauldwell), and (e) since all GFCIs and AFCIs need to be tested regularly, it is more convenient to check them all at once at the service panel than sorting out their many locations downstream. 
The edgewise 2 x 4s frame a plywood runway in the
 "vertical basement" that channels most of the circuits
 towards the service panel (arrow).  Eventually, the
 runway will be covered with plywood that can be easily
removed for future access to the wiring.

Code now requires GFCI and AFCI protection in so many areas of the house, garage, porches and patios that the cost of our using circuit breakers was probably not much more than the cost of distributed GFCI and AFCI receptacles.  Since our house is partially earth sheltered, we are living in contact with a lot of soil, much like living in a basement where GFCIs are advisable if not mandated by code.  Even though the soil in contact with the house would ordinarily be moist/wet and therefore a ready ground for any short circuits, the soil under our house is drained dry by a series of French drains and the insulation/watershed umbrella keeps the soil behind the house dry, making it safer.  However, I decided to error on the side of caution by protecting all circuits with either a GFCI-AFCI or combo AFCI circuit breaker (the old style AFCI breaker no longer meets code in most places).

And one last thing that I probably would not have thought of without Cauldwell is that our hard wired smoke alarms daisy-chained on an AFCI circuit could be a deadly combination if the backup batteries in the alarms are not checked regularly and kept fresh.  Then, if a fire were to damage the circuit, the AFCI would kill the power but the alarms would still function on battery power.

Unique Grounding Issues
The electrician used the typical single grounding rod driven into the soil just below the electric meter.  However, it did not occur to either of us that the insulation/watershed umbrella next to the house would render the soil bone dry and therefore useless for grounding the electrical system.  Luckily, within a few weeks, our solar panel vendor will be installing behind the house opposite the electric meter a free-standing photovoltaic array.  The underground cable between the array and the service entrance to the house will overlay the insulation/waterproof umbrella and therefore be shallower than the 18" depth dictated by code for buried electrical lines -- a problem easily handled by encasing the cable in concrete.  I intend to include in the concrete a #4 copper wire between the service entrance and then add several daisy-chained grounding rods driven into the wet soil outside the perimeter of the umbrella.  The use of several rods 8 to 20 ft apart and 8' in length instead of a single rod is another Cauldwell "above code" recommendation.

Before an online search, I assumed that the steel roofing and siding would be susceptible to lightning strikes and would need to be grounded either directly or through the service panel  (Cauldwell recommends the latter). As counter-intuitive as it may seem, though, a metal roof is actually safer than a conventional roof in that the surge would be dissipated over a large area, particularly for a house with a footprint as large as ours, and metal roofing is non-combustible.  All bets are off however if there are metal vent pipes through the roof that could funnel a surge into the building.  Our PVC plumbing vent stacks and the CPVC vent for the tankless water heater are non-conducting so, for now, ours siding and and roof are not grounded.

Surge Protectors
My research reveals that there are two main locations where surge protection is mandatory to protect electrical and electronic equipment throughout the house.  One is at the main service panel primarily to arrest large pulses entering through the power line such as lightning strikes and surges caused by the utilities working on transmission lines.  For this purpose, Cauldwell recommends what looks like a pair of common single-pole breakers with a green and red indicator lights (circled in the nearby photo).  The second location is at the point of use for filtering out smaller pulses that fall below the range of the breaker surge protectors.  Here it takes only a good quality surge protector receptacle strip with plug-in cord.  He also warns about using snap switches for electronic equipment that are not protected by surge protector strips.  He also recommends buying surge protector strips with coaxial cable ports so that incoming coaxial cables can be run through the surge protector before continuing on to electronic equipment. 

Circuits for Electronic Equipment
In addition to surge protection, there are two other considerations for electronic equipment ---  electrical noise and phantom loads.

Electrical noise that compromises electronic equipment can be controlled by stand-alone circuits with sufficient grounding back to grounding bus bar in the service panel.  The question then becomes.....what works best for new residential construction -- dedicated circuits or isolated ground circuits?  A fairly thorough search of the internet leads me to understand that new construction circuits like ours utilizing Romex cable affords the opportunity to use dedicated circuits having conventional receptacles to the exclusion of the much more complicated circuitry with isolated ground receptacles.  The latter is typically reserved for commercial and industrial applications having intricate interconnected metal conduits and electrical boxes.  Consequently, I ran dedicated AFCI breaker-protected circuits for each potential location for TVs, computers, printers, amplifiers and, eventually, receptacles for incoming coaxial cable equipment.

A quick web search of "phantom load" reveals that the electric bill for the average home today is increased by at least $100/yr for energy consumed by modern conveniences that look turned off but are actually in standby mode.  Computers, microwave ovens and remotely-controlled appliances such as TVs consume electricity when not being used as do more obscure devices, like garage door openers, charging stations, answering machines and doorbells.  Some phantom loads (sometimes called "vampire" loads) are unavoidable such as those associated with surge protectors, smoke detectors, doorbells, garage door openers, answering machines and alarm clocks.  The remainder can be controlled simply by using switchable power-strips or by unplugging them.  However,  since we are not very diligent even with off-switching much less unplugging, I outfitted all of the dedicated circuits, as well as the the kitchen counter and laundry circuits, with wall mounted switches conveniently located.  With a little self-discipline, we can easily control vampire loads to our electronics as well as to appliances such as the coffee maker, microwave oven, toaster, dishwasher, automatic washer and dryer.

Unfinished Business
At the time of this writing, all that remained to complete the rough-in was connecting the cables to circuit breakers in the load center.  The advent of warmer weather, however, caused a postponement in favor of more critical outside work.  I plan to chronicle this phase as an addendum to this post in due time. 

Sunday, July 28, 2019

Design - Mean Radiant Temperature and Our Project - Part II - The Details

In a recent post I made the case for using mean radiant temperature (MRT) the vehicle for understanding earth sheltered passive solar then followed that with a post outlining in bare bones fashion our green building project through the lens of MRT.  This post adds flesh to the bones, describing in detail how our passive solar home will control mean radiant temperature to eliminate conventional heating and air conditioning.

But First..........
It seems appropriate from time to time to remind readers that I am not an expert in any of the fields involved with our project.  Most of our design is based upon myriad sources that I have been sleuthing for many years now so I am standing on the shoulders of many experts and original thinkers, largely without giving them credit.  But at the same time a lot of originality has gone into our project to make it more compatible with our climate, our building site, local building codes, using salvaged materials, working alone, spartan budgeting and, especially, designing and redesigning on the fly.  By blogging, I would like to feel that I am paying forward for the insights borrowed from the experts and original thinkers while, at the same time, adding original content to the sustainability dialogue.

This posting is longer than usual but, for better understanding, I feel the complete story should be told without interruption.  And, a reminder, click on the photos to enlarge them for better viewing.

The Challenge
The control of mean radiant temperature (MRT) for passive solar is a matter of having sufficient solar gain, then having the storage capacity to capitalize on the gain and finally having a building envelope that preserves the gainThe goal is to create an environment that radiates heat at the same rate as its occupants so that they are always comfortable.  


An early sketch of our AGS system.  The red line
represents a conduit (one of nine) angling upward from
the solar collector, located in front of the house,
to daylight behind the house.  It is 5' below the floor level
at the front foundation and 3' below at the back foundation.
Since it is inclined, heat from the collector rises naturally
through it, warming the soil below the concrete floor and
behind the concrete north wall (orange).  The 

insulation/watershed umbrella is not  shown but would 
lie just below the wavy black lines that represent the
grade in front and back of the house.
The unique thing about a Annualized GeoSolar (AGS)* design like ours is that solar gain occurs year-round.  In winter, as with classic passive solar, there is direct gain through the south-facing windows.  But then, in summer, a solar collector, located some distance from the house, continues the energy harvest (isolated gain) in a way that is actually more important for AGS than the winter harvest.

Winter Heating
 During the three months of summer here in Collinsville, Illinois (near St Louis), the available sunshine is reduced by 31% due to cloud cover.  Since days are long during June, July and August and the sun is more intense, the 69% of available sunshine nevertheless represents a lot more energy than can be harvested during the short days of winter.  But shorter days are not the only problem -- the cloud cover during December, January and February is even worse than in summer, blocking 53% of the available sunshine.  Fortunately the relative amount of sunshine between winter and summer is almost moot in our case because the surface area of glass in the solar collector will be a sixth of that of the 19 south-facing windows collecting winter sunshine.  The collector will harvest energy more efficiently per surface area of glass than will the windows, but for the first couple of years, more useful warmth will come from the winter sun.  Like the the hare-tortoise race, the solar collector, while slower, will eventually win because the two systems will heat the thermal mass from different directions.  The heat from winter sun will warm the superficial layers of the thermal mass but not enough to eliminate the need for supplemental heat. The collector will gradually, over a year or two, warm the deeper layers from below where the heat will be trapped permanently and more able to stabilize the MRT year-round.  In fact, Don Stephens, who, along with John Hiat, introduced the concept of AGS, speculated that designs like ours will eventually overheat and that part of the solar collector might have to be mothballed to control it.  Until the temperature of the thermal mass stabilizes at a desirable temperature, we will resort to portable infrared heaters that, as opposed to permanently-installed infrared heaters, can be partially or fully retired when no longer necessary.

Summer Cooling
Direct solar gain during summer is an issue that is less well resolved.  One sees pictures of passive solar homes, earth sheltered and not, that have south facing glass unprotected by overhangs.  Some even have glass that is tilted back at the top to be more perpendicular with the sun's rays in winter.  I suspect that the latter could experience overheating during summer even if shining on a thermal mass floor, particularly if the floor was a dark color. If the glass were perpendicular but unshaded, the amount of overheating might not be a huge problem if it was backed up by thermal mass of an appropriate color.  This guess is based upon the fact that the high summer sun angle is so obtuse in our area that much more energy is reflected off of the glass than penetrates it.  

In view of the above, we have elected to go with overhangs for all of our windows in order to eliminate entirely sun penetration from the latter part of May to the early part of September. The overhangs, in concert with windows that are inset 10" from the surface of the exterior wall, will however be somewhat counterproductive when they restrict solar penetration that would be welcome in late spring when the MRT has fallen to the lower 70s and allow some unwanted penetration in early fall when the MRT has risen to the upper 70s.  (The unique design for the windows was covered in a recent post.)

Often lost in a discussion of passive solar is the extent to which heat generated by living in a house helps to heat the house.  Cooking, water heating, showering, drying clothes, lighting and human bodies all warm the air and probably raise the MRT somewhat as well.  But these factors also have a downside -- they compromise indoor air quality in an airtight structure and must be controlled by either an energy recovery ventilator or a heat recovery ventilator.


Picture taken during troweling of the concrete floor;
 notice the extent of the floor and concrete north wall that
 will become part of the thermal mass; notice also the
insulated concrete forms creating a "frost-protected 
shallow foundation"
Storage capacity is directly related to thermal mass.  But other factors are important too, such as the type of window glass, interior colors and natural or assisted air movement in the living space.

How the Thermal Mass Works
The primary thermal mass for our dwelling is (a) the soil beneath the concrete floor and (b) the soil under the insulation/watershed umbrella on all sides of the house, especially that behind the concrete north wall.  Unlike classic earth shelters in which the concrete in the floor and walls is the thermal mass, the concrete in our house, while being that too, transports heat to and from the soil as its primary job. The amount of soil serving as thermal mass could be calculated I suppose.  For example, the earth serving as dry and insulated mass under the umbrella behind
The insulation/watershed umbrella under construction
in the space between the solar collector on the left and
the house on the right; it ranges from R-20 nearest the
house to R-10 at its periphery; the umbrella rests on the
shallow foundation footings, rendering them frost-free,
and butting against the insulated concrete forms for a
continuous vertical to horizontal thermal barrier
the north wall could be determined by multiplying the height of the uninsulated part of the wall (10') by the length of the wall (60') then by the width of the insulation/watershed umbrella (20') extending horizontally outward from the wall, etc.  But the exact figure for this triangular quantity of soil is unimportant; what is important is that we are talking about a lot of thermal mass behind the wall alone to say nothing about that residing under the umbrella east, west and south of the house and under the floor of the house itself. It is safe to say that we will have plenty of storage capacity for any amount of solar gain even considering that some heat will bleed through the umbrella because it is only R-20 at its thickest.  However, since it takes 6 months for a unit of heat to travel 20 ft through dry soil and the umbrella is 20 ft wide, most of the heat loss from under and behind the house will be through the concrete floor and north wall to warm the house in winter which is a good thing.

Air Movement - Winter
The thermal mass will cool the house during warm months just as it will warm the house during cool months.  Since the stick-built walls and ceiling are so well insulated, most of the unwanted heat entering the dwelling in summer will be conducted through the windows despite the fact they are fully shaded as described in a recent post.  Even though the windows are top-rated at R-4, they are like holes
The red arrows point to the tall wall between the living
quarters and the "vertical basement";  the magenta
arrows point to the concrete north wall; the space
circled by green is the airlock (see text)
in our R-60+ walls when it comes to keeping heat out in summer or confining heat in winter.  But natural convection within the dwelling will largely handle the problem. As the inside air is cooled at the windows in winter, it will fall to and be warmed by the concrete floor, which, if all goes as planned, will be in the mid-70's irrespective of the time of year, thanks to a stable temperature of the soil beneath it.  The moderated air will also find its way to the north wall, be warmed by the constant year-round temperature there, rise to the ceiling and back to windows.  Probably there will be no need for assistance from fans but, if so, nothing more than ceiling fans on the second floor blowing gently upwards to encourage the warm air to find the windows. 

Air Movement - Summer

Summer will be a bit more challenging.  The heat gain through the second floor windows will tend to collect under the second story ceiling and will have to be
John Hiat's indispensable book
pushed downwards along the slanted cathedral ceiling towards the concrete north wall, the top of which is about 6 feet below the tallest part of the second floor ceiling.  Ceiling fans blowing upwards might be enough to push the air along but wall fans between the pairs of second story clerestory windows blowing towards the north wall may be needed instead of, or in conjunction with, the ceiling fans.  Or maybe it turns out that the ceiling fans, blowing downwards, are forceful enough for the warm air to find the north wall and the concrete floor below. Not all of the heat from the first story windows will rise to the second floor ceiling.  Because heat seeks cold, some will be immediately absorbed into the cooler concrete floor.

Tall Wall Design
In order for the air to reach the north wall in both seasons, it will have to pass through the tall wall (red arrows on the floor plan above) that separates the living space from the vertical basement .  Accordingly, as many cold air registers as possible are being built into the bottom of the wall just above the baseboard and another row at the top of the wall. This design for the tall wall,
A thermometer (circled) is located in the middle
of the house 
by the way, is not original; John Hiat in his remarkable book, pointed out how important it was for the air in the living space to have plenty of access to the thermal mass of the north wall and the soil behind it.

Preliminary Observations
The metric "cooling degree days" (CDD) is used to analyze warm weather temperatures.  At the time of this writing in the waning days of July, the temperature in the middle of the first floor of the house has not exceeded 82 degrees despite higher than normal CDD readings for both the month of July and for the cooling season as a whole.  All that separates the interior from the 90-something outside weather are the windows and a layer of plywood sheathing covered with lumber wrap or 6 mil plastic.  The second floor is another matter; temperatures there have tracked closely with outside temperatures.  The difference between the two floors has mostly to do with thermal mass -- the lack
The temperature in early afternoon
 on July 13 when the outdoor
temperature was 93 degrees; the
highest reading of 82 degrees was
reached later in the month during
a week long heat wave
of it on the second floor and an abundance of it on the first floor.  The mass was cooled sufficiently last winter to continue to absorb heat this late in the summer.  

A vivid example of MRT at work:  when we take a break from working on the outside of the house in hot weather, we sit close to and are cooled by the north wall because energy radiates from our bodies at a higher rate than radiates from the cool wall.  During the coldest part of last winter, the inside temperature stayed in the 40's and upper 30's despite the fact that there were no windows yet to collect winter sunshine. Only once for two days during a week of single digit outside temperatures did it drop below freezing, making it obvious that the indoor environment was being moderated by heat that had accumulated in the thermal mass during the warm season.  And the second floor temperatures, unlike in summer, did not track as consistently with outside temperatures due to heat rising out of the thermal mass.  Now that the windows are installed and winter sunshine will have access to the thermal mass, I would expect the inside temperatures next winter to stay above the mid-40's. Of course, once the house is insulated, the temperature of the thermal mass will no longer fluctuate with the seasons but these preliminary observations bode well for an efficient  AGS system once the building is wrapped up.

Window Glass
Transparent glass overlooking the thermal mass
(concrete floor and soil beneath it) on the first floor
The type of glass in the windows can be used to help winter sunshine find thermal mass.  Transparent (clear) glass allows sunlight to warm whatever it touches.  On the first floor, it will warm the concrete floor and soil below, which is a good thing.  On the second floor, where there is virtually no thermal mass, translucent (frosted glass) works better.  Instead of focusing sunlight, it will diffuse it until it either finds cool thermal mass or it warms the air enough that less heat is drawn from the thermal mass.  In our case, all of the first floor windows are transparent and all but two of the second floor clerestory windows are translucent.

Interior Colors
Translucent glass for most of the second floor to 
compensate for the lack of approximating thermal mass
Finally, we will choose interior colors to coordinate winter solar gain with thermal mass in much the same way that window glass can.  The colors where the sun shines on the surface of the concrete first floor will be medium hues so as to absorb energy at a rate that is compatible with the absorptive rate of the concrete and soil below.  Lighter colors would be okay, but not ideal -- similar to translucent glass, they would mostly diffuse the energy rather than absorb it.  Dark colors would be contraindicated because they can cause unpleasant overheating much like sunlit asphalt. 
Notice three features:  (1) the maturing eastern red cedar
shelter belt, (2) the unfinished upper termination of the 9
conduits that originate in the solar collector in front of the
house and (3) the amount of earth sheltering for the 12'
tall concrete north wall (the grade at its highest point is
8" below the top of the concrete portion of the wall with
5' of stick-built wall on top of it).  The back of the house
is covered with 6 mil plastic while waiting for steel siding
On the second floor, light colors will be the rule so as to work in harmony with the translucent glass in diffusing the solar energy until it finds thermal mass.

Solar energy is hard to come by so it makes sense to design a building that preserves it unequivocally.  Many previous posts have described the green features of our building so I will only list some of them here (along with some linkages to informational posts), as a reminder of the effort that has gone into its design and execution.

      - 15" walls and 18" cathedral ceilings with minimal thermal bridging filled
                  with rice hulls at R-4 per inch
     -  Roof trusses covered by two separated layers of sheathing that form a 
                  ventilated air space ("cool roof" design)
     -  Highly reflective steel roofing (light gray) and steel siding (bright white)
     -  Insulation/watershed umbrella extending below grade outward from
                  the house in all directions (see Featured Post in the left column above
                  for a history of the umbrella)
      - Frost protected shallow foundation
     -  Plywood sheathing rather than OSB for better moisture control within the wall
     -  Vapor and air barriers for ceilings and exterior walls that favor drying over vapor
     -  Fiberglass casement and awning windows (see recent post for
                 details on how their design contributes to preserving the gain)
     -  Fastidious air sealing of the building envelope, inside and out
     -  Main entry shielded from north and west winter winds by house and garage
     -  Sizable airlock inside main entry to moderate incoming hot or cold air before it 
               enters the living space (see drawing above)
     -  Shelter belt of eastern red cedars shielding the house from north
               and west winds


No discussion of passive solar would be complete without mentioning PV panels to generate electricity.  A previous post covered the subject in detail so I will only summarize here.  Our goal is to buy only enough PV to break even with the electric company through reverse metering.  Since our needs will be so minimal, our vendor has offered to sell us the parts and materials for a DIY installation.  

With electricity taken care of, our only out-of-pocket energy costs will for the natural gas for cooking, water heating and clothes drying.
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* For a information on AGS, click on "Featured Post" in the left column above or go to Don Stephens' definitive paper  or, for an abbreviated explanation, go to  Wikipedia.) 

Monday, July 15, 2019

Design - Mean Radiant Temperature and Our Project - Part I - An Outline

In a previous post I made the case for using mean radiant temperature the vehicle for understanding passive solar.  After defining the concept, I explained how it works for three types of structures:  (1) stick-built houses, (2) classic earth sheltered passive solar houses and (3) Annualized GeoSolar (AGS) houses like ours.  Now I would like to use a couple of posts to describe how we are controlling MRT to eliminate conventional heating and air conditioning.  This is an outline; the next post will fill in the details.

Controlling mean radiant temperature by balancing solar gain, storage capacity and heat gain/loss through the building envelope.

A.  Our conditioning system is both winter centric and summer centric, hence "Annualized" GeoSolar
B.  Direct solar gain through south-facing windows during winter
C.  Isolated solar gain during the summer when days are longer and sun is more intense
D.  Huge soil-based thermal mass despite limited earth sheltering
E.  Year-round semi-constant comfort level without supplemental heat or HVAC

A.  Solar collector harvests heat from summer sun; conduits distribute it throughout thermal mass (primary source of heat)
B.  Windows collect heat from winter sun (secondary source)
C.  Windows: clear glass when thermal mass is adjacent; frosted glass when mass is distant 
D.  Solar overhangs shade windows in summer

A.. Control of MRT is assured by having abundant thermal mass
               1.  Concrete:  floor and tall north wall
               2.  Soil (with its moisture and temperature controlled):
                            a.  Beneath floor and immediately behind north wall
                            b.  Beneath R-10 to R-20 "insulation/watershed umbrella"
B.  Interior colors: absorptive when mass is adjacent; reflective when mass is distant 

A.  Rice hull insulation at +/-R-4 per inch 
B.  Truss walls 15" thick with minimal thermal bridging at R-60
C.  Truss ceilings 18" thick with minimal thermal bridging at R-73
D.  Swing type fiberglass windows (R-4) inset 10" from exterior wall surface to minimize  wind washing and excessive solar gain in Spring and Fall
E.  Fastidious air sealing of entire exterior envelope, inside and out
F.   Energy recovery ventilator for indoor air quality
G.  Cool roof design:  ventilated space between truss sheathing and roofing sheathing
H.  Frost-protected shallow foundation using insulated concrete forms
I.  Highly reflective steel roofing and siding
J.  House and garage that shield main entry from north and west winter winds
K.  Air lock inside main entry to modulate incoming hot and cold outside air

Stable year-round MRT fluctuating between 72 and 78 degrees without supplemental heat or conventional HVAC

The smallest photo-voltaic array that is practical and net-metering to break even with the electric company; utility costs will be limited to natural gas for the gas range, tankless water heater and clothes dryer plus fees for municipal water and sewer service.

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The next post, Part II, will expand on these topics.

Thursday, June 20, 2019

Design - Passive Solar and Mean Radiant Temperature

The number of visitors to our building site has been steadily increasing as it begins to look more like a "real" house.  And now, while its bones are still exposed, is a good time for the uninitiated to see it and get a feel for how it will work.  Some of the visitors have been groups who do self-guided tours of the grounds and then come inside for a look around followed by a sit-down session on passive solar in general and earth sheltered passive solar in particular.  We compare three types of construction:  (1) typical stick-built houses, (2) classic 1970-80-era earth sheltered houses, as ably articulated by Rob Roy in his book, and (3) what has come to be known as Annualized GeoSolar houses like ours as described first by Hiat and then Stephens.  (For details on AGS, click on "Featured Post" in the column to the left; it will take you to three posts that follow the evolution of AGS.)

I have always had difficulty describing the many nuances of passive solar and earth sheltering.  A couple of months ago, I read again for the umpteen-time Edward Mazria's book, where, on page 64, he discusses the relationship of mean radiant temperature and human comfort.  This time it hit me that the concept of mean radiant temperature would be the perfect vehicle for making passive solar more understandable.

Mean Radiant Temperature

Understanding Mean Radiant Temperature
A cold evening campfire is one of my favorite things but, being skinny, I need to sit at exactly the right distance from the fire to stay comfortable.  If I sit too close to the fire or it blazes up, I quickly get too hot; if I sit back too far or the fire dies down, I begin to chill.  When I visit Missouri's underground caverns, I need a warm wrap.  Otherwise, the low temperature of the enveloping rock soon raises goosebumps.  The reason for these phenomena is that my comfort level depends upon a balanced thermal environment whereby the wave energy radiating from the fire or the walls of a cave that my skin absorbs is more or less equal to the wave energy that I am emitting -- equal actually to a 100w incandescent light bulb.  The mechanism at play here is called mean radiant temperature (MRT) and here’s how it works.

The feeling of comfort for us humans is best realized by maintaining a thermal environment in which the human body can lose heat at a rate that is equal to its production – no shivering, no sweating.  The need to lose heat stems from the fact that the body is essentially a heat engine with a thermal efficiency of only 20% (Mazria).  The waste-heat (80%) is dissipated in three ways:  perspiration, convection and by radiation to surrounding objects (walls, floors, furniture, etc. and, in the case of earth sheltering, thermal mass).  Of the three mechanisms, radiation accounts for about half of the heat loss with perspiration and convection (heat carried away by air) accounting for the rest. 

MRT is simply the average temperature of solid matter in the surrounding environment and it is more important for comfort than the air temperature in the same environment.  In fact, a 1 degree change in MRT has a 40% greater effect on body heat loss than a 1 degree change in air temperature (Mazria).  Therefore, when designing living space, it is far more efficient to control MRT than it is to control ambient air temperature.  And the higher the MRT, the lower the air temperature can be.  For example, If we can maintain the MRT at say, 76 degrees, the ambient air temperature could be as low as 62 degrees but our comfort level would be the same as if the air temperature were 70 degrees. Although MRT applies to matter such as wall studs, drywall, wood floors and furniture, it takes something much more massive to provide comfortable environments.

Mean Radiant Temperature in Stick-Built Homes
In stick-built homes, it is impossible to maintain a reasonably comfortable thermal environment without HVAC systems even with plenty of south-facing windows, because there is no thermal mass for storage and insulated 2 x 4 walls rated (optimistically) at R-13 or 2 x 6 walls rated at R-19 (optimistically) hemorrhage heat in winter and absorb heat in summer.  The temperature of the entire structure is at the mercy of outdoor temperatures that can be up to 30 degrees too hot or 70 degrees too cold.   Consequently, it takes a robust HVAC system to keep up with the heat gain or loss through the building envelope.  And, in lieu of thermal mass in which to store heat, the HVAC system cycles on and off repeatedly in order to keep the air warm or cool enough.  Meanwhile, the effect of MRT on human comfort actually becomes a negative -- in winter, the human body radiates heat faster than the cold walls and, in summer, it radiates heat slower than the warm walls. 

Mean Radiant Temperature in Classic Earth Sheltered Passive Solar Homes
The thermal mass in the classic earth sheltered passive solar home is limited to the concrete in the floor, exterior walls and sometimes ceilings at the exclusion of the soil below, behind and above the concrete.  This peculiar situation occurs because the soil is kept from
A nearby earth sheltered passive solar home built just
after the oil embargo in the late 70s - early 80s; the living
quarters are one room deep and the roof is fully earth
being part of the thermal mass by insulation applied to the outside of the concrete shell. However, this arrangement does protect a large portion of the building envelope from extreme summer and winter temperatures, a significant improvement over stick-built homes.  The problem is that the amount of solar gain through south-facing windows and the limited storage capacity of the concrete shell are not able to keep up with the loss of heat through the insulation behind the shell and under the floor, to say nothing about heat loss through the south-facing stick-built wall.  Consequently, the mean radiant temperature remains so cool in winter that supplemental heat is the norm although the amount of supplemental heating is much less than stick-built structures because it has only to raise the temperature, say, 10 degrees – the difference between the soil temperature beyond the insulation and a 70 degree temperature in the living space.  
As in a stick-built house, though, most of the supplemental heat goes towards keeping the air temperature comfortable.  But at least the modest amount of thermal mass that exists in the form of concrete is enough to store any excess solar or supplemental heat as well as any waste heat from cooking, water heating, showering, drying clothes, illumination and radiating from human bodies.  Any heat that does make its way into the mass and is held there rather than bleeding through the insulation and into the cold soil would indeed improve the MRT of the living space, something that could never happen with a stick-built home.  A major advantage of the classic earth sheltered passive solar house is that the coolness of the MRT in summer means that conventional air conditioning is rarely needed (gleaned from conversations with owners of classic earth sheltered homes in our area).

To be sure, there are non-classic earth sheltered passive solar designs that are more MRT-centric than just described but they are not as common.  Typically they utilize the most efficient thermal mass possible -- water -- in containers (like metal "oil" drums or darkly-painted polymer vessels of various shapes and sizes) staged to collect winter sunlight through south-facing windows during the day and release heat at night and on cloudy days.  Less commonly, roof ponds comprising water in waterbed-like bags strategically situated on the roof are used to heat in winter and cool in summer.

Mean Radiant Temperature in Annualized GeoSolar Homes

What sets our Annualized GeoSolar earth sheltered passive solar home apart from stick-built construction and the classic earth sheltered home is the total absence of supplemental heat or conventional HVAC.  This is possible by controlling profoundly the mean radiant temperature in three ways:   (1) increasing solar gain by harvesting the summer sun as well as the winter sun, (2) significantly increasing the storage capacity of the thermal mass, and (3) retaining heat (winter) or rejecting heat (summer) with a R-60 to R-73 building envelope.  We expect a year-round comfort level in the mid-70s with a fall-off  to the lower 70s by the end of winter and an uptick to the upper 70s by the end of summer. It may take a couple of years for the temperature of the thermal mass to stabilize during which we will use infrared space heaters for supplemental heat but, from the beginning, will not need to worry about air conditioning.  It is not inconceivable that the wide seasonal swings will disappear entirely after a few years.

(Thanks to Jason Graklanoff, my engineer friend, for his thoughtful input to this post.)

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In the next two posts -- first with an outline then by delving into the details -- I will explain how our AGS build will provide year-round comfort without conventional heating or air conditioning.